“As rain falls equally on the just and the unjust, do not burden your heart with judgment but let your kindness fall like rain.” — Dhammapada.

Namo Buddha is a site of profound spiritual significance and one of Nepal’s most famous Buddhist pilgrimage sites, located just 40 km from the capital, Kathmandu. A scenic route to Namo Buddha leads through the Newar town of Panauti, which boasts a charming historical centre. From here, the path follows a gently rising valley dotted with small farming villages. The fields are interspersed with mandarin orange orchards, whose fruits add vibrant orange hues to the landscape in November. At the end of the valley rises a rather unassuming hill, within whose forests a story unfolded that, like no other, has touched the hearts of the inhabitants of the surrounding valleys throughout the ages. Today, the hill has become a pilgrimage site, attracting visitors from other regions of Nepal and abroad as well.

Prince Mahasattva

Long ago, Prince Mahasattva, as the previous incarnation of the Buddha, lived in this gentle hilly region. He was the youngest of three sons in a popular royal dynasty. One day, as Prince Mahasattva and his brothers were wandering through the vast forests, they came upon a tigress in a cave. She was so weakened by hunger that she could not nurse her newborn cubs. Unable to help her, the brothers continued their way.

Prince Mahasattva, whose nature was characterized by generosity and compassion for all living beings, was so moved by the tigress’s suffering that he sought for a solution. He asked his brothers to go ahead. He turned back and sat down in the cave beside the tigress, who was already too weak even to raise her head. At this sad sight, the prince had the following thoughts:

“For a long time, I have been cycling in samsara, wasting countless lives, sometimes due to excessive desire, sometimes aversion, and sometimes ignorance. I have rarely met such an opportunity to accumulate merit. What real use is this body if not for the Dharma? This time, I must be truly generous” (Khenpo Losel. 2008, 4. Namo Buddha. Dharmakara Publications). Then he resolved to sacrifice himself for the survival of the tigress. With a sharp splinter of wood, he cut into his flesh and let the tigress lick the blood from his wound. Strengthened, she rose and, with a piercing roar, lunged at the prince.

At this moment, the Queen had a bad dream. She saw three pigeons. When a falcon carried away the youngest one, she woke up in panic. She told the King: “I have been told that a pigeon is the soul of a son. I dreamed that a falcon caught the youngest of three pigeons, so some misfortune has certainly befallen the most beloved of my sons» (Shakya, Min Bahadur. Namo Buddha and its Environs: A Legacy of Great Compassion, in Buddhist Himalaya, Vol XI, Combined Issue 2001-2007, 82).

When the two older brothers had waited in vain for Prince Mahasattva, they grew uneasy. A dark premonition crept over them. Had their younger brother perhaps gone back to help the tigress? When they returned to the tigress’s cave in search of him, they were confronted with such a painful scene that they both lost consciousness. When they came to, they were filled with a feeling of profound grief and despair. Only bones, traces of blood, and hair remained of their brother. Despairingly, they wrestled with themselves. How could they have left him alone, and how could they inform their parents what had happened?

After the King and the Queen received the unbelievable news from their elder sons, they immediately went to the tragic scene. The Queen also fainted when she saw her son’s remains. Nothing could console the royal couple for their tremendous loss. To express their grief and to commemorate their beloved son, they had a stupa (memorial monument) built on this spot, in which the remains of Prince Mahasattva were interred in a precious golden vessel.

The Memorial Stupa

Over time, the stupa containing the relics of Prince Mahasattva was constantly visited and highly revered by the inhabitants of the kingdom, whose centre is believed to have been located at the same place as the city of Panauti. Even after the fall of this kingdom, the stupa – today known as “Namo Buddha Stupa” – remained in the memory of the people and is testament to its enduring historical significance.

Prince Mahasattva was reborn in Lumbini over 2,500 years ago as Prince Siddhartha, the Buddha-to-be. He attained enlightenment at Bodhgaya and became known as Buddha («the Awakened One»). According to legend, Buddha and some disciples once visited the hilly area of Namo Buddha. When they came to the spot where Prince Mahasattva had sacrificed himself for the tigress, Buddha, in his all-pervading clairvoyance, remembered this event. He realized that the prince was none other than himself in a previous life. Upon this realization, he called out «Namo Buddha» («Glory to Buddha»). Then, he circumambulated the spot three times.

The pujari (temple priest) Dipak Bajracharya told me, that this memorial stupa, with its approximately six-thousand-year history, is the most important site at Namo Buddha. Dipak Bajracharya’s term as pujari is limited to six months every three years, during which he performs various rituals and ceremonies. As shown in the picture below, he sits in the small shrine located in front of the stupa. At its centre stands a stone statue of Prince Mahasattva, flanked by his two brothers.

As the pujari further recounted, after Prince Mahasattva’s self-sacrifice, the tigers in this area became kind to people. To this day, not a single attack on human beings has been recorded. It is said that a tiger was once sighted on every full moon. However, with population growth, the loss of forested areas, and the expansion of roads and traffic, the tigers have vanished from this region.

During the winter months, many inhabitants of predominantly Buddhist mountain regions temporarily relocate to warmer areas – especially the Kathmandu Valley. On this occasion, they often make a pilgrimage to Namo Buddha. The stupa is one of the three most important in Nepal. The other two are the stupas of Svayambhunath and Bodhanath. The kora (ritual circumambulation of the stupa in a clockwise direction), the lighting of butter lamps, the recitation of mantras, the mounting of new prayer flags, and the spinning of prayer wheels are the most important rituals at this sacred site. They create a serene and peaceful atmosphere from early morning until late at night and allow pilgrims to immerse themselves in the spiritual practices of Namo Buddha.

As in many other religious sites, the most popular days for pilgrims at Namo Buddha coincide with the full moon. Sometimes thousands flock to Namo Buddha to commemorate Prince Mahasattva.

Other Places of Interest

The Black Stone Relief

A steep footpath leads from the Namo Buddha Stupa to the top of the hill. On a platform stands a Mayal tree, its branches sheltering a small shrine containing a black stone relief. It depicts the scene in which Prince Mahasattva feeds the hungry tigress. Inside the square shrine, besides the stone relief and a small offering table, there is just enough room for the many butter lamps lit by pilgrims, as well as a few visitors. Reportedly, the stone relief was only donated and brought here sixty-six years ago by a Newari citizen from Banepa. According to local sources, however, this is not the spot where Prince Mahasattva sacrificed himself, even though many believe it is.

The White Stupa on the Viewing Platform

The white stupa, right next to the shrine with the black relief, is accessible by a staircase. This is the highest point of Namo Buddha. In clear weather, there is a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding hills and the snow-capped giants of the Himalayas to the north. This white stupa is of more recent origin and was built after the 2015 earthquake in memory of a deceased person.

The Last Pilgrim’s Site on Namo Buddha Hill

Following the footpath along the ridge, you’ll reach another hill after a furrow. Here, you’ll find a lifelike, three-dimensional representation of Prince Mahasattva and the tigress with her cubs. The figures were recreated after the earthquake. Right next to this representation is a shrine with a black stone protruding from the ground. As in many other Hindu worship sites in Nepal, it has been considered a manifestation of Kali, who embodies the wrathful aspect of the Mother Goddess. To appease her, animals were once slaughtered here. This practice was discontinued under the influence of Buddhism.

Left: The inconceivable Sacrifice of Prince Mahasattva. Right: The black rock, a manifestation of the Mother Goddess.

Temple Bells and Guilded Roofs

Those traveling by car from Dhulikhel to Namo Buddha arrive directly at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery parking lot, located on the eastern side of Namo Buddha Hill. Since its founding in 1978, the monastery has grown into a massive structure. Under its gilded roofs, it provides accommodation for hundreds of monks.

The spiritual head and founder of the monastery was the late Khyabje Thrangu Rinpoche (1933 – 2023), one of the eminent masters of the Tibetan Karma-Kagyü-tradition. «Understanding how special this sacred place is and disregarding all hardship, Khyabje Thrangu Rinpoche worked long and hard to establish the monastery. … He set as a goal the establishment of three sections in the monastery: a monastic college focused on the study of Buddhist philosophy, a practice assembly focused on meditation, and an activity contingent focused on various aspects of work at the monastery» (Khenpo Losel. (2008, 14). Namo Buddha. Dharmakara Publications).

Above: Views of the monastery. Below: Within the monastery compound, there is a small cave with stone statues of Prince Mahasattva and the tigress with her cubs.

The monastery is built in the Tibetan style and includes several temples and shrines, all exquisitely decorated. The main assembly hall is also open to visitors, and the first puja of the day begins as early as 6:00 a.m. Visitors, who like to stay overnight, can find accommodation in the monastery’s two guesthouses.

Shankhu – A Village at the Foot of Namo Buddha Hill

The small hamlet of Shankhu at the foot of the hill is accessible from Namo Buddha Stupa in a few minutes via road. The pujaris of the stupa have lived here for many generations. A total of 16 pujaris, belonging to the priestly caste of two Newari family clans, share the responsibility for the shrine in front of the stupa and the daily ritual obligations. The profession of a pujari is passed down within the family.

As the pujari Kaji Bajracharya explained, the Namo Buddha Stupa is older than the archaeological remains in Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. It is said to have a six-thousand-year history. It goes back to the time when Prince Mahasattva sacrificed his life for the survival of the Tigress. In the shrine, which barely offers enough space for the pujari to sit down, a revered black stone statue stands at the centre, so worn that its contours are scarcely discernible. According to Kaji Bajracharya, the central figure is Prince Mahasattva, with the middle prince to his right and the elder prince to his left.

At the shrine, the pujaris receive offerings from pilgrims, recite prayers, burn substances purifying the atmosphere, sell butter lamps, and bless pilgrims with a tika, a red mark on their foreheads. During my visit in October 2025, the Pujari Dipak Bajracharya took care of the traditional duties. After the next full moon, November 5, 2025, when hundreds of pilgrims will again be here to circumambulate and venerate the stupa, he will pass his office on to a relative.

Photos on the left side: The shrine dedicated to the queen of Prince Mahasattva before the landslide. Photos on the right side: The landslide after heavy rainfall in October 2024 destroyed the shrine completely (above). The place of worship has been restored as best as possible (below). Photos: by Sajib Bajracharya

In Shankhu, a small shrine is dedicated to the memory of the queen, the mother of Prince Mahasattva. Unfortunately, in October 2024, this shrine was destroyed by a mudslide after heavy rains. The shrine’s surrounding wall, as well as statues and other objects, were carried by the mud into the Shankhu Kola (river) and swept away by the raging current. A temporary place of worship has been set up here using the remains recovered from the rubble.

Epilogue

In conclusion, the question arises: what can this pilgrimage site offer its visitors? Although Prince Mahasattva’s self-sacrifice likely exceeds the imagination of most visitors, it certainly reminds us to be compassionate and generous to all living beings – a behaviour that can diminish our selfish tendencies – and to strive for the well-being of others. In this sense, the life story of Prince Mahasattva can still serve as a guiding light and a source of inspiration for many pilgrims.

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Acknowledgments

Over the past few decades, I have visited Namo Buddha four times. This time, during my stay from October 24 to 30, 2025, I was keen to learn more about the site to make this information accessible to interested readers and pilgrims. Some of the written accounts of Namo Buddha that I have mentioned in this article were essential sources for a better understanding. Most valuable, however, were the accounts of local informants, who provided me with insights into the spiritual dimension of this pilgrimage site and some previously unknown facts. I would especially like to thank:

• Prayash Lama, the manager of Hotel Sonam, which is located just behind the monastery on the ridge and offers fantastic views of the Himalayas. Prayash Lama grew up right next to the Namo Buddha Stupa. Thanks to his firsthand knowledge, he could to give me a wealth of valuable information and advice.

• Dipak Bajracharya, the pujari of the Namo Buddha Stupa temple at the time of my visit.

• Man Kaji Bajracharya, an experienced seventy-year-old pujari whom I visited at his home in Shankhu.

• Sajib Bajracharya, who gave me several photos that were used for this article.

How to get to Namo Buddha

Namo Buddha is about 40 km from the heart of Kathmandu. It is in the Kavre District in the southeast of the Kathmandu Valley. With the local bus, it will take 3 to 4 hours, by taxi the ride from Kathmandu takes 2 hours.

Taking a local bus from Kathmandu, one first goes to Ratna Park Bus Station, which is also known as Old Bus Park (Puraano Bus Park). There one can book a ticket to Banepa. The bus goes through Koteshow, then Bhaktapur, and then finally reaches Banepa. In Banepa, one has to change buses and has to buy another ticket at the counter for Namo Buddha. The bus goes past the Dhulikhel bus station.

You can also trek to Namo Buddha, starting in Panauti and passing through Sangkhu, which takes about 3 hours. In that case, you have to take a bus or taxi from Banepa to Panauti first.